It was on the advice of John Dos Passos, a fellow member of the “Lost
Generation” of ex patriate artists and writers populating Paris during
the 1920s, that Hemingway was first prompted to visit Key West.
Hemingway did not go directly to South Florida from Paris, but rather
arrived through Havana, Cuba—a city and country that would prove to be
critically important in Hemingway’s later personal and professional
life. Upon his arrival in Key West in April 1928, the first order of
business was to locate the new Ford Roadster that Pauline Hemingway's
wealthy Uncle Gus had so generously purchased for the newlywed couple.
Because the car had been delayed in transit, the Ford dealership
insisted that they take up residence in an apartment located above the
showroom on Simonton Street. Ernest and Pauline accepted the offer, and
he resumed work on a war story he had started on the ocean passage to
Key West. Hemingway continued his Paris habits of writing during the
early mornings, and taking time to explore his surroundings in the
afternoons. The Hemingways spent three weeks waiting for their car, and
it was during this very brief three-week interlude that
Ernest—amazingly—finished the partially autobiographical novel about the
First World War, "A Farewell To Arms."
Soon after arrival, Hemingway made the acquaintance of Charles Thompson,
who ran the local hardware store. Charles Thompson introduced Hemingway
to the exciting world of big game sport fishing, and a long friendship
was born. Charles and his wife Lorine entertained the Hemingways at
their home on Fleming Street. Lorine Thompson proved to be as friendly
and gracious as her husband Charles, and it was during those early days
in Key West she and Pauline forged a friendship that would endure for
the rest of their lives. Both Ernest and Pauline grew to love Key West
and its inhabitants, and soon decided to look for a permanent residence.
After two seasons in Key West, Pauline's Uncle Gus purchased the house
on Whitehead Street for them in 1931.
The Hemingway home was built in 1851 in the Spanish Colonial style, and
was constructed of native rock hewn from the grounds. The home was in
great disrepair when it the Hemingways took ownership, but both Ernest
and Pauline could see beyond the rubble and ruin, and appreciated the
grand architecture and stateliness of the home. The massive restoration
and remodeling they undertook in the early 1930’s turned the home into
the National Historical Landmark that thousands of tourists visit and
enjoy today.
A unique and extraordinary feature of the grounds is the pool, built in
1937-38, at the staggering cost of $20,000. It was the first in-ground
pool in Key West, and the only pool within 100 miles. The exhorbitant
construction costs once prompted Hemingway to take a penny from his
pocket, press it into the wet cement of the surrounding patio, and
announce jokingly, "Here, take the last penny I've got!" Tourists are
invited to look for the penny, still embedded between flagstones at the
north end of the pool.
The Hemingways’ personal touches still abound throughout the house. Many
of the unique furnishings are European antiques collected during their
stay on the continent. The trophy mounts and skins were souvenirs of the
Hemingways’ African safaris and numerous hunting expeditions in the
American west. Ernest’s presence can still be felt in his studio where
he produced some of his most well-known works. In addition, a very
visible and living link to the past are the descendants of Hemingway's
cats. The story goes that Hemingway made the acquaintance of a sea
captain who owned an unusual six-toed tomcat, which captured Ernest’s
fancy. Upon his departure from Key West, the captain presented the cat
to Hemingway. Today many of the numerous cats that inhabit the grounds
still possess the unusual six toes.
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